Fashion Network: Oteyza: from classic tailoring to “street à couture”
After its last 4 digital editions, Oteyza returned to the physical format at Paris Fashion Week with an interactive presentation organized at the Spanish Embassy in the capital, in which the brand’s own designer guided and positioned the mannequins. A “return to the scene” that celebrated its sixth participation in fashion week with the presentation of its “Air” collection for next spring-summer through a video shot in the Trocadero Gardens, at the foot of the Eiffel Tower . Inspired by the moving forms and colorful work of Raoul Dufy, the silhouettes were dyed in deep blue, pearl grey, fuchsia, beige or the house’s deep black.
A total of 25 looks faithful to the brand’s usual fabrics, from merino wool to linen through cotton or silk, which appropriated more contemporary tailoring garments. Architectural cuts and flowing falls in deconstructed jackets, capes with ribbons, pleated pants adjusted to the legs with ties, elegant shorts, skirts, Cordovan hats or overlapping elements creating various volumes and asymmetries. Among them, a single model, dressed in a wide set of earth tones culminated with a beret tied around the neck.
“We wanted to propose functional garments, but very elegant and without losing our essence of elaborate tailoring and pattern making. There is a space in streetwear for sophisticated proposals that can coexist with the most casual ones”, explained the co-founder of the firm born in 2012, Caterina Pañeda. In fact, the latest collection once again included several pairs of minimalist sneakers and introduced, for the first time, accessible pieces such as polo shirts and T-shirts. “We started as a more niche brand and we are gradually approaching the more mainstream street”, added Paul García de Oteyza, also the promoter of the firm, underlining the importance of maintaining the “touch of craftsmanship” and the “sartorial baggage”.
The brand, which gave entry to its capital to the Perfumes y Diseño group in 2021 with the sale of a minority stake, has several plans on its roadmap. Beyond the intention of developing its own fragrance together with the company directed by Pedro Trólez, the firm will face its internationalization at the hands of its new showroom, the Parisian No Season. “We are a family company and we are going little by little, we want to approach the expansion step by step”, explains the duo of creators, who are setting their sights on the Asian region.
To accompany this project, the Madrid-based firm has an ace up its sleeve: the presentation of a contemporary conceptual musical, inspired by the parade held in 2018 with the National Ballet, which will reflect the importance of the Merino sheep in culture and the economy. “Fashion is very ephemeral and we want to rely on the value of culture,” says the couple. The show will travel to several cities, but its premiere will wait until next year.