Vogue Runway: FW22/23

Spanish brand Oteyza set its new path with its previous collection.

Amidst the pandemic last year, founders Paul García de Oteyza and Caterina Pañeda opted to take a more casual approach.

“It all started with our spring collection El Caminante,”

García de Oteyza said. “Now, we simply follow what we started.”

The duo is determined to bring Spanish craftsmanship to the spotlight but from a fashion-forward point of view.

They did so with a mix of tailored pieces and technical fabrics such as neoprene.

Asymmetrical capes and double-breasted suits were inspired by the French painter Nicolas de Staël.

“Our latest collections were very focused on the countryside and its palette.

We missed the ocean, so we went for a collection full of navy blues and whites, and fisherman hats,” said García de Oteyza.

“De Staël was very into asymmetrical shapes, delicate forms, and pops of color, and so are we.”

Capes have indeed been an Oteyza trademark since far back,

but this time around those statement pieces shared space with more approachable items like sweatshirts

and marinière T-shirts.

“We kept the high standards and materials—such as mohair wool, silks, or even raw leather for

the backpacks—but we wanted to move forward.”

The result was a collection ofcity-friendly looks.